Greedy Gourmet | Food & Travel Blog https://www.greedygourmet.com Greedy Gourmet is an award winning food and travel blog. Eclectic recipes from all over the world are regularly published, satisfying the blog's audience of adventurous eaters' needs. Tue, 04 Jun 2024 20:22:33 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.5 https://www.greedygourmet.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/cropped-icon-150x150.png Greedy Gourmet | Food & Travel Blog https://www.greedygourmet.com 32 32 King Crab Safari https://www.greedygourmet.com/king-crab-safari/ https://www.greedygourmet.com/king-crab-safari/#comments Thu, 12 Jul 2018 09:04:14 +0000 https://www.greedygourmet.com/?p=26762

Read More

]]>
Have you ever heard of a king crab safari? Believe it or not, these types of tours are available if you travel to northern Norway, well inside the polar circle.

The entrance to King Crab Safari wooden shack with the sign on it

After the experience the words that popped into my head were "trappe van vergelyking", which I then had to google to find the English meaning. Degrees of comparison.

Three people dressed in yellow suits walking to the King Crab Safari Boat
A man fishing off the side of the boat
Two people pulling a crab cage out of the water from the King Crab Cruise
A close up view of crabs in the cage
One of the fishermen of King Crab Safari holding a crab close

Degrees of comparison

Anyone who knows me would tell you I'm a sucker for seafood. Crab, especially. When long periods of "drought" unintentionally take place, in pure desperation I've been known to eat the shellfish straight out of a can. So people, the struggle is real. First world problems and all.

Run of the mill

In third place, or should we say at the bottom, is the type of crab you can buy at UK fishmonger stalls. The small crab has been boiled, the white and brown meat scraped out and egg added before the shell is refilled. In England, this dish is called 'dressed crab'. It's tolerable.

(In the UK it's very rare to find crab on a restaurant menu, so it doesn't make this list.)

Something special

Four years ago I went to Isles of Scilly, which turned out to be a massive treat because of the memorable meal I had at The Crab Shack. To this day, I still swoon when telling people about the monster crab I enjoyed there. One of the questions commonly asked when people hear I'm a food blogger is where was my favourite meal. The Crab Shack used to be the answer, but no more. There's a new bad boy in town.

Creme de la creme

Ladies and gentlemen, if you are a crab aficionado with serious urges that strike every now and then, let me introduce to you the king crab. It's not just a case of being served king crab legs on a plate either, it's the whole tour you simply have to experience.

The run down dock of the King Crab Safari
People in yellow suites walking up the ramp to the King Crab Safari dock
A landscape shot of people standing on the King Crab Safari dock

King Crab Safari

It all starts with traveling to Kirkenes. At its small port, the words 'King Crab Safari' is clearly marked on the back of a tiny building, which is hard to miss. Make sure you wear comfortable shoes, and dress in warm and windproof clothing. Survival suits and life vests are provided but if anything extra is offered, such as goggles and gloves, accept the offer. Trust me.

Riding on a rigid-hulled inflatable boat (RIB) at a high speed will make you cold in five seconds flat and my sunglasses simply weren't up to the job of protecting my eyes from the icy wind. For one moment I thought my eyeballs were going to freeze and fall out. Don't be proud. Don't think you're a bad ass. Don't be stupid. Take the goggles. Take the gloves. Take it all!

The trip on the RIB was super fun as we blitzed on Barents Sea along the Bøkfjord, enjoying views of the midnight sun in the pink, hazy sky. An orange buoy clearly marked where we had to stop in order to pull out the crab trap. The average water depth is 230m (750ft) deep and it took quite a while to hoist up the victims. Once they appeared it was a sight to behold.

A red barn, sand, trees and a long wooden plank
The sunset from the King Crab Safari boat
Michelle holding a giant crag almost half the size of her body

king crab fishing in norway

Peering through the the netting, all you could see were legs. Loads of them, plus strong claws that can snap off your fingers if you're not careful. These creatures might be able to run quite fast on the sea bed, reaching a speed of up to 5km/ph, but on land their large, hard bodies become a liability and they struggle to move, limbs waving about helplessly.

A ration of one crab for two people are assigned and volunteers are welcomed to help out with the selection process as well as the handling of the netted container. After the crabs are picked, the remainder are gently and slowly put back into place on the seabed for a later occasion.

A man cutting into a crab on the King Cruise Safari
A close up view of some of the crab meat coming out of the shell

King Crab in Norway

The red king crab isn't native to Norway. It actually originates from the North Pacific Ocean but were released by Russian marine biologists into Murmansk Fjord in the 1960's. Years later the crab population increased and in the mid-1970's the first king crab was caught in Norwegian waters. Today they can be found as far south as Tromsø but no further because the water is too warm for them otherwise. The ideal temperature in tanks for them are 5°C or lower.

A close up view of crab legs in a basket

Norway's king crab problem

One topic that can potentially raise a heated debate amongst fishermen and ecologists is the impact of king crabs on the environment. Since their introduction to Norwegian waters, some believe these crustaceans have upset the ecological balance in nature because they devour everything and anything in their path. In Barents Sea the schools of herring have all but disappeared. Due to this, in some communities, there are no restrictions as to how much crab can be caught at any given time or season.

A man holding a basket of crabs about to be steamed on the King Crab Safari
A close up view of red crab legs in a basket after steaming

King crab sizes

Female crabs are usually released back into the water. A female crab carries her eggs in a clutch under the abdominal flap for up to one year. Due to her pivotal role in the procreation of the king crab species, when she is caught, she is released back into the wild to carry on with her duties.

In the lab it takes around 2 years for a crab to reach the size of a penny. Only after four or five years are  crabs considered mature and ready to mate. Lucky fisherman have been known to catch crabs weighing up to 8kg each with a leg span of over 180cm (6ft).

Crabs are then weighed and tagged. The bigger the leg, the higher the asking price. In Alaska they measure how many legs make up 10 pounds, with 20 considered small and 6 being super-jumbo.

A red bar with the door open showing the tables where the people were to eat
A close up of a round clock
A man holding a platter of fresh crab legs from the King Crab Cruise

Steamed King crab legs

Our fisherman, Gary, is a man who wear many hats. Not only did he take us out on the boat, caught the crabs, and took us to a traditional boathouse, he even did all the killing, cleaning and cooking of the creatures.

He demonstrated the quickest and kindest way to kill the crabs and drain their blood. Unlike other species, only the legs are used for cooking and he dissected the animals in a jiffy. Next up, he reluctantly, and jokingly, divulged his secret recipe for cooking king crab legs. Water and salt!

At home we would usually boil crab in salted water but here he had super large pots with baskets and steamed the massive pile of unwieldy legs. Surprisingly, it took a long time to cook, approximately 20 minutes but when they came out they were cooked to perfection.

A man showing how to de-shell a crab leg
A view from the table with plates and scissors to cut open the crab leg from the King Crab Safari

Once we were seated, Gary then proceeded to show us the best way to eat crab. The meal was simple. Sliced white bread, butter, mayonnaise, and more crab legs you can wave a stick at. How we feasted!

Avoiding gluten whenever I can, I opted for just the crab meat. It was a messy, but hypnotic affair, as slivers of the juiciest, fresh crab meat revealed itself after cracking ligaments and gently pulling them apart. After two legs I was full, but opted for a claw to check out the difference between the flesh. Since the claw is a strong muscle, the fibres are more bouncy and robust but nonetheless just as enjoyable as the more manageable leg. Absolute bliss.

A close up view of the crab legs cooked in a sheet pan

I've never been a Michelin-meal kind of a girl. A lot of pretension surrounds the subject where the heavy name dropping starts and the number of stars mentioned seemingly indicates your sophistication and zeroes in the bank. Do you know what my answer will be next time asks me about my favourite meal? You guessed it. Eating a rustic meal, comprising freshly caught king crab legs prepared by Gary, in a wooden shack on the fjord in the north of Norway. There you have it.

Want to go on a King Crab Safari too? It costs £162 per person, so go to Hurtigruten's website to book your trip!

King Crab Safari Pin

P.S. I was a guest of Hurtigruten. All opinions are my own.

]]>
https://www.greedygourmet.com/king-crab-safari/feed/ 13
Hurtigruten's Classic Voyage Cruise https://www.greedygourmet.com/hurtigrutens-classic-voyage-cruise/ https://www.greedygourmet.com/hurtigrutens-classic-voyage-cruise/#respond Wed, 18 Jul 2018 13:42:29 +0000 https://www.greedygourmet.com/?p=26814

Read More

]]>
Explore Norway and its raw, rugged and natural beauty with Hurtigruten’s Classic Voyage cruise.

hurtigruten cruiseship in the ocean

Truth be told, I never would have visited Norway if I weren't invited. Earlier this year, I had a choice of 16 European cities to travel to. Still reeling from the Beast of the East, I looked for the most southern city on the list, which happened to be Lisbon and traveled there, happy as a clam.

Since UK isn’t renowned for its glorious weather, my natural inclination is to opt for warm destinations.  I don’t know about you, but I certainly recognise that at times I need to expand my comfort zones a bit. In this case I travelled the most north I’ve ever been, well within the realms of the Arctic Circle. Not only did I brave the cold but also lost another virginity - going on a cruise ship.

The front of the hurtigruten ship
the balcony of hurtigruten
The life boats of hurtigruten cruise

Amongst younger generations the stereotypical image of a cruise is filled with imagery of retired, old people playing bingo between ports, hoping to squeeze the most out of life before they kick the bucket. As I were to find out, this wasn’t necessarily the case.

Hurtigruten might be well known in Scandinavia and in some parts of Europe, but not so much so in the UK. This isn’t just any kind of cruise company who decided to get in on a quick buck with the growing demand for cruise holidays.

Michelle standing on the ship with mountains in the background
The cruise ship pulling away
People on the sun bathing deck of the hurtigruten cruise

If I had to come up with an analogy it will be to compare Dubai to Rome. A lot of money has been thrown at the middle of the desert to create a booming tourism industry, where entertainment and shopping abound and you can even bizarrely partake in activities such as skiing. Fun? Yes. Does it have a soul? No.

Rome is steeped in history, and if you remove one layer, you’ll find another underneath, and another. History, architecture, food. You can spend a lifetime there and still discover surprising facts about this ancient city.

The interior of hurtigruten ship, white and red chairs
Blue lounge chairs on the hurtigruten cruise

Huge, purpose-built cruise liners sail the seas all across the world on a daily basis. These floating resorts provide entertainment, in various forms, around the clock serving food that will satisfy every palate. What’s not to like?

Yet, Hurtigruten is where the soul is at. It all started in 1893, coastal steam liners, where transport links were created to create a closer-knit community between the coastal cities. Not only did the boat transport goods, such as skrei (fish) to the different ports, but mail as well. People came later and its onboard facilities improved and organically evolved into what it is today. More specifically, the captain that established these routes from north to south was called Richard With. Today, the history of Hurtigruten celebrates its 125th year!

Hurtigruten's history

Back in the late 19th century, coastal travel was limited, especially between the cities of Trondheim, Tromsø and Hammerfest. At that time, there were only 28 lighthouses in the area which made travel very difficult and hazardous. Seas can get rough in these areas and lighthouses are needed for guidance.

In 1893, the Vesteraalen's Steamship Company decided to tackle this problem. With Captain Richard With's support, they were able to expand the traffic lines from Trondheim and Hammerfest all the way to Bergen and Kirkenes. The trip only took 7 days, therefore it was called 'hurtig ruten', meaning "fast route". Hurtigruten!

In 1896 the Captain helped transport a hotel to Svalbard, outside Longyearbyen, with hopes to increase traffic. The hotel called Hotellneset still stands there to this day. In the same year, he established a "sport route", carrying passengers from Hammerfest and Svalbard. In 1988, due to its popularity, the route expanded yet again to the south of Norway and in 1908, it was possible to go all the way to Kirkenes, which is near the Russian border. With each passing year, the ships expanded their routes and cites like Lofoten and Vesteralen became permanent stops for the ships. Moreover, each year, as with the expansion, the ships saw vast technical advancements in the design of the ships. For example, the cabins were of the first that were fitted with water and had separate ventilation systems.

The number of passengers grew from 230,000 in 1936 to 500,000 passengers by 1949. Today, there are 15 ships in operation, ready to accommodate you on your next Arctic trip. Don't worry, today the ships have modern facilities, making the Hurtigruten ships a hallmark with respect to travel on the Norwegian coast.

 Transport today

Locals regularly use this form of transport with one such example being mothers of newborns. The further up north you go, the sparser the population and facilities available. Hours away from the closest hospitals, expectant mothers opt more often than not to stay at the hospital from 4 weeks before birth, ensuring the arrival of their babies in the smoothest and safest way possible. The problem comes in when they want to return home but can’t take babies onboard planes because of the health risks posed. In this case, Hurtigruten saves the day by providing safe passage for mother and child. This is just one example of the functional purpose this company serves for the greater good.

There are 15  boats in the current Norwegian fleet offering the Hurtigruten experience. Believe it or not, but it actually is a large number of ships considering their size and vast service offerings. The Polarlys, which I went on, accommodates 35 cars as well, which makes Norway ideal for an unforgettable, idyllic road trip. Alternatively, you can let Hurtigruten take the lead when it comes to excursions.

The gym of the hurtigruten cruise
A gift shop on the hurtigruten cruise
The kitchen of the hurtigruten cruise

Looking at these photos, you can really grasp just how modern the ship's facilities are, with hint of true Norwegian authenticity.

Dining on Hurtigruten

The food onboard the Hurtigruten was amazing. First and foremost, there is the open buffet which can accommodate all types of guests. One of my favourite parts was they also had fresh produce from the local cuisine, staying true to its roots! Wouldn't you want to have freshly caught seafood while you are up there? Only the best!

Some of these delicacies available at the buffet included herring, gravad lax, smoked salmon, cooked salmon and other sea creatures that you can hardly find back home in the UK or on the continent. This is why Hurtigruten is an amazing culinary experience for the biggest foodies and seafood lovers.

Otherwise, the buffet also includes the usual items such as eggs, bacon, baked beans, roasted vegetables, soup, salad ingredients, various sauces, pastas and limited pudding. Overall, the food is overwhelmingly healthy, which is a big bonus.

Hurtigruten also caters for vegetarians, vegans and others on special diets. Even if you are gluten or lactose intolerant, you are covered. The selection is so vast that there is something for everyone to eat. All in all, the buffet is great and it gets a big thumbs up from me.

For a more premium culinary experience,  there is a set menu available at times too where you can indulge yourself in a fancy luncheon or dinner. I had a joint dinner at the ship's main restaurant “Torget” – enjoying the culinary concept Norway's Coastal Kitchen.

Norway's Coastal Kitchen

The set menu of the day was cured salmon, venison, and apple cake.

A buffet table on the hurtigruten
Salmon en croute

The cured salmon was for a lack of a better word - perfect! The salmon was beautifully cut, showcasing the amazing knife skills of the chefs onboard. Accompanied by some salmon roe, cress and thin slices of radish, this cured salmon disappeared extremely fast from my plate!

A piece of venison with mashed potatoes

Next came the venison main course dish. The venison was cooked just right, with a tender, pinkish center. The gravy was a perfect addition to the meat as well as the potato mash. This is a very common side dish in Scandinavian cuisine.

A cake and small scoop of ice cream

The apple cake was soft in the center, the sponge was moist and it was most enjoyable with a scoop of ice cream.  In my opinion, a very solid restaurant meal onboard a ship.

What surprised me even more is the fact that there is an option to go fine dining, where you can order king crab too along with the option of pairing wine with each dish.

Kysten menu

Alternatively, you can also enjoy a dinner at “Kysten”, trying the local specialties and delicacies of the Hurtigruten à la carte menu. Here you'll find everything when it comes to local cuisine.

A sign that says King Crabs on the hurtigruten
The dining room of the hurtigruten

Aren't the views incredible? Imagine a fine dining experience with arctic and coastal views.

Bread and butter on a wooden board

First, it all started with different flavoured butters and fresh bread.

A close up of roasted veggies and scallop on a plate and wine

Next came the scallop and chorizo dish which was very well balanced with small portions of seasonal vegetables. Doesn't this dish look like it came from a Michelin-starred restaurant? Plus, the white wine pairing further enhanced the umami flavours of the scallops and chorizo.

A lamb rump on a white plate with a glass of red wine

The lamb rump was very memorable and filled me up completely. Don't be fooled by the portion size, it's more generous than it appears.

Ice cream inside of a waffle cone and a shot of brown clear liquid

The evening ended with an authentic Norwegian dessert which came with a shot of a little digestive. The waffle was soft and overall the dessert was delicious.

free prawns anyone?

One event I truly enjoyed on board the Hurtigruten was the fact how the passengers were given Norwegian flag. The tourists would then wave at a tiny village, which was a very amicable experience. Traditionally, the villagers wave back at the same time every day of the week and sometimes they even respond with a display of fireworks.

Beforehand passengers are handed a cup of fresh prawns to enjoy on deck.

A fisherman holding a large tray of raw pranws
A man wearing a red jacket holding a Norweigen flag
The coast of Norway

The press trip ended at the MS Polarlys docking at Svolvær where we wished the ship and its crew farewell. In Svolvaer, there was great food and accommodation to be had. For example, I enjoyed a wonderful dinner at the renowned Børsen Spiseri. There again, you have the opportunity to eat amazing local seafood. Just take a scroll through the photos and be the judge yourself.

A lighthouse and statue on the coast of Norway
A close up of an orange appetizer in a small shot glass
A piece of white fish on a white plate with garnish
white merignue and red sauce

After the meal, I stayed overnight at the cosy and comfortable cabins of Svinøya Rorbu. In my opinion, this little cabin hosted the best views. In the background, as you can see, is a stunning mountain backdrop with scenic views of the lakes.

A red cabin and picnic tables
A coastline view of Norway
Older brown buildings on the coast of Norway

What I really loved about Hurtrigruten is that they are passionate about supporting local producers. These Hurtigruten included Arkt-is and Lofotpils that are both located in Svolvær.

A close up of gelato with orange sauce
Chocolate truffles in a cone shape with red sprinkles

Later, I enjoyed a scenic drive through Lofoten islands to visit Hurtigruten supplier Aalan Gård, a diverse working farm renowned for its herbs and organic cheeses. Just look at this cheese platter below, and check out the brown cheese!

White and yellow cheese on a cutting board
Brie cheese and chocolate on a wooden cutting board
Small round wheels of cheese on display

As you can see, Hurtigruten has so much to offer. More importantly, it offers freedom as well to hop on and off anytime you wish. You are free to do your own activities and visit local towns. It's truly great when you can just head off on your own and make a little adventure yourself. Also, it's a good chance to getaway from the ship for a while and appreciate the different faces of Norway.

By the way, did you know that Hurtigruten is the world leader in sustainable nature-based expedition travel?

The large Hurtigruten ship
The coastline of norway with a blue sky

Hurtigruten Excursions

King Crab Safari

Remember the photo of me holding a massive crab? Well, this was all thanks to the King Crab Safari - you can read all about it in my review of the King Crab Safari here. All in all, it was an experience of a lifetime where I learned all there is to know about crab fishing in Norwegian deep seas.

King Crab Safari sign
Crabs in a basket
A fisherman holding a large king crag
The wooden dock of the king crab
A man wearing orange gloves handling live King crab
A close up of King Crab

You learn how to prepare king crab and afterward get to eat fresh steamed crab legs! Eating king crab while enjoying magnificent scenery thank to the midnight sun truly is a once in a lifetime experience.

The sunset of Norway

Artic walks

Another one of our trips with Hurtigruten was the Arctic walk. Accompanied by the Hurtigruten Expedition Team, I went on a coastal hike which took around 2.5 hours and it was a relatively easy walk. It's a good opportunity to stretch those sea legs. Other excursions which you can take part in include:
  • The mountain hike with huskies. It's perfect if you love dogs as much as I do.
  • The Arctic coastal walk - another scenic walk that holds breathtaking views.
I would have loved to get involved with the huskies but this is primarily a winter activity. I also managed to take part in the traditional activity of taking a break and grilling viennas on an open fire, sipping tea and coffee and eating Kvikk Lunsj. Don't know what the latter is?
A man walking along the coast of Norway
Three people looking at the Norway Mountains
A group of people standing on a rock
 A rocky beach of Norway
Grilling hotdogs over fire

Midnight Concert

Would you be interested in a midnight concert way up north within the realms of the Artic Circle? Imagine yourself in a gorgeous and iconic arctic cathedral Tromsø. You'll have a chance to experience the impressive interior Nordic architecture while looking at breathtaking stained glass mosaics. All the while listening to the sounds of Norwegian folk music performed by professional musicians. It is a truly moving musical experience where you hear the music within the acoustics of the cathedral.

Unfortunately, I skipped the midnight concert. Instead, I opted to be shown around by a local, which was an adventure in itself. Just take a look below, you'll see some amazing photos of the local city and the scenery that envelopes it. These people are just so lucky to live here. Really breathtaking views and a memorable experience for all those who love nature!

Polaria Museum

In the meantime, while I was touring the city and clicking away, I had the chance to stop by the Polaria Museum. If you ever have the chance to visit this museum, you'll see that it has a very specific structure. Actually, it sort of looks like dominoes.
The Polaria Museum has an Arctic aquarium, knowledge-based exhibits, a panoramic cinema and a giant souvenir shop.
The mountains of Norway
A large metal sculpture outside the museum
The coastline of Norway with a wooden house
White capped mountains

RIB BOAT SAFARI

Surprisingly, I truly enjoyed the adventurous RIB boat safari which takes you through beautiful Raftsund and dramatic Trollfjord and we even saw sea eagles! This just comes to show how much freedom Hurtigruten actually gives you so you can discover things that you love.

A person taking pictures of the mountains
A small green island with mountains in the background
Waterfall in Norway seen from hurtigruten
A few small buildings on a mountainside

In the past, the high season used to be in the summer due to the long daylight hours. However, now there is a growing demand for colder months where tourists can enjoy winter activities such as husky sledding. Also, I think that people still want to enjoy viewing the icy glaciers and mountains while they are still there. Yes people, global warming is a really big problem and the problem with plastic is just one factor. If we wish to enjoy more of this natural beauty, we should all act responsibly and take some accountability for the mess we've made on the planet.

Here are some tips that you can follow to help save the planet and the environment.

Nonetheless, Hurtigruten has 15 ships that offer different experiences. Check them out here as well as their destinations. In fact, Hurtigruten offers so many voyages it's hard to keep track because they all sound so amazing.

Find a cruise that suits your needs and your taste of adventure. Some of these include a 16 day Viking Heritage Trip to Iceland and Greenland, or spending Christmas with penguins in Antarctica. Although, I've seen that they also offer some Caribbean trips all over, discovering the warm seas, corals, beaches and reeds. Quite different from the colder excursion of Antarctica and Norway.

the ending

All good things come to an end and it certainly did with Hurtigruten. It was an adventure every single minute, whether it was a culinary adventure or a daring coastal hike with incredible views. This trip really opened my eyes just how amazing colder adventures can be. So, it's important to keep an open mind and not go for only the exotic paradise stuff, because this was paradise in itself as well.

I highly recommend for you to discover just how beautiful our northern hemisphere is., not to mention the amazing fresh seafood caught the same day as you eat it. I mean, could life even possibly get better than that?

Don't forget to check out Hurtigruten's website for availability and the type of cruises they offer. Good luck finding your perfect adventure!

hurtigruten cruise pin

P.S. I was a guest of Hurtigruten.

]]>
https://www.greedygourmet.com/hurtigrutens-classic-voyage-cruise/feed/ 0